The
Castelli majolica.
Castellian ceramic art, which became famous in the
sixteenth century, appears to have extremely antique
origins. It was probably the Benedictine monks,
before the Valle Siciliana feudatories, who first
introduced glazed ceramics around the 12th century.
However, the present centre of Castelli has only
developed as a town, and thus economically, since
the fifteenth century. The early production of "engobed
and engraved" ceramic and the archeological
digs carried out in the drains of the antique kilns
confirm the growth of an industrial-type system
which was already widespread in the first half of
the 15th century.
The engobing technique, which consisted of a coating
of ceramic bisque using an earthy liquid dough which
was then coloured and "graffito" (engraved),
was soon followed by the majolic production. This
differed from the first in that an expensive glaze
was applied to the bisque thus appealing more to
wealthy clients. Right from the start, the production
methods, which combined economy and quality with
innovative techniques, made Castelli one of the
most renowned and esteemed centres of the Renaissance.
The use of engobing, for example, under the enamel
meant the majolica was much whiter and consequently
less enamel was needed. The particular technique
of the "breathing" oven, recently studied
by researchers at the C.N.R. (National Research
Council), led to a marked reduction in the use of
wood because the fumes given off were used again
in the combustion process. The simple but genial
solution of painting only the outward-face of pharmacy
pots or others used for show whilst leaving the
backs quickly but effectively decorated halved the
time it took to produce them. Finally, the plentiful
supply of wood, clay and water necessary to mill
the stanniferous powder for the enamel were all
characteristic of the economy of a place which,
today, would seem too far from the markets, cut
off from present means of communication and incredibly
isolated amongst the mountains. Nevertheless, already
at the beginning of the 16th century, Castelli had
overcome its phase of imitating Umbrian products
and was creating its own iconographic and morphological
collection directed at high level buyers in a European
market.
The spread of Castelli's great fame in the 16th
century is attested to by Antonio Bueter, who, in
his book, Cronica generale di Spagna (General Chronicle
of Spain), when talking about some famous Moorish
majolica production, wrote: "According to Pliny,
Corebo, the inventor of working clay, whilst in
Athens, did not make them any better neither were
they any more valuable than those of Corinth or
Pisa, nor those of Castelli of the Valle Siciliana
d'Abruzzo or anywhere else, neither were they more
beautiful or better crafted".
That must have been the case if the Aragona, Orsini,
Farnese and other noble families of the day commissioned
their everyday and most elegant dinner services
from the Castelli ceramists. At least eleven families
collaborated together with numerous workers at Castelli.
The richest and most important of these was the
Pompei family, creators of the famous "Orsini-Colonna"
collection commissioned to celebrate peace made
between the two farmilies. They also created part
of the "Farnese tableware" with the famous
"turchine" in gold. One should not, however,
imagine, as romantics would, dark workshops with
a solitary figure, the master craftsmen, intent
on his masterpiece. On the contrary, these were
authentic industries organized into sections and
outbuildings from the search for clay, wood and
other materials to the kneading, lathing and the
first baking, finishing with the painting, which
was only started off by the master craftsman to
then be reproduced by his helpers. The final baking
then established the colours and lastly carne the
glaze. It was, therefore, a whole series of craftsmanship
which required quite different but highly specialised
skilled workers supervised by the master craftsman
himself. Together with the production there was
the commercial side which was controlled by different
members of the family. They supervised all the operations
necessary to participate in fairs and markets, both
nearby and far away, organizing the loads, hampers
and mules used for transportation as well as the
equipment needed for the journey.
In the 18th century the economy flourished again
and Castellian production revived although it had
to compete against porcelain now being produced
in Europe. This was another occasion where strategic
choices, which today would be called "marketing",
were able to bring the Castelli majolica to the
attention of the European market. It was particularly
the comeback of the "historiated" style
(from "historia"), and landscapes, inspired
by an almost canvas like concept of the object,
as though it were a background to be painted on,
which put the product high above any technological
competition from porcelain, which concentrated on
imitating oriental models and decorations.
Thus majolica established itself in a new way on
the market. Together with the historiated ceramics,
a more modest production was set up which -imitated
the porcelain themes. This was designed mostly for
local buyers and especially the new bourgeois class
which was arising at that time. During the next
century, thanks to the technical introduction of
new colours, red amongst them, this production underwent
a stylistic evolution with the typical "floracci"
(big flowers). As had happened in the 16th century
with the Pompei family, 17th century and especially
15th century Castelli production was characterized
by the works of art of another great family of majolic
producers: the Grue family. Landscapes, sea-scapes,
hunting scenes and animals, battles, Biblical and
mythological scenes would appear, one after the
other, alternating the classical colours of yellow,
green, sky-blue and orange. Whilst everywhere else
art was in decline already, here it was reaching
its peak; in the middle of the l8th century there
were 35 factories and 5000 hampers of majolica were
sent to the fair of Senigallia which, together with
those sent to the fairs of Fermo and Loreto, earned
more than 30.000 scudos.
This production continued to the beginning of the
19th century with Gesualdo Fuina who specialized
in decorations which were very like miniatures.
Today, in the most important museums in the world,
it is possible to admire the works of art made for
European noble families in four centuries of Castellian
history: from the hermitage in St. Petersburg to
the Louvre in Paris and from the Victoria and Albert
Museum in London to the Metropolitan Museum in New
York.
Or, one can visit the Castelli ceramic museum situated
in the cloisters of an ancient convent just outside
the town where display boards show the working methods
and fragments discovered during archeological research.
One kilometre from the town stands the ancient icona
(as small churches were once called), of San Donato
whose modest appearance is deceptive as, on entering
the church, one cannot help admiring the trussed
ceiling entirely decorated with sixteenth century
polychrome bricks with coats-of-arms, arabesques,
human figures and animals painted on ceramic. For
enthusiasts there is a splendid book available and
the catalogue of an international exhibition held
a few years ago which summarize the studies and
multi-disciplinary research which has been carried
out for years on the Renaissance production of this
centre. Furthermore, soon the famous Acerbo Collection
will also be at the Castelli museum. This Collection,
based at Loreto Aprutino, is one of the largest
private collections of majolica and will, at last,
be open to the public-again.
At 17 kms from the S. Gabriele exit on the Teramo
- L'Aquila motorway, Castelli has easy access to
the coast (45 minutes by car), and to Rome (a drive
of about two hours on the motorway). Its position,
at an altitude of 500 metres, under the picturesque
barrier of the Monte Camicia, makes it a good starting
point to cross over and ascend the woodland-covered
eastern face of the Gran Sasso group of mountains
in the new National Park.
The mother church must be visited, where a 13th
century wooden polychrome, the majolic altar-piece
by Francesco Grue (1647), and a medieval silver
cross of the Sulmona school have been preserved.
In August, a large market exhibition of current
ceramic production is set up but it is possible
to wander around the streets of the town anytime
of the year and come across numerous craft shops
and stores. Prices vary greatly depending on the
type and decoration, the choice ranging from simple
rustic-like crockery with the typical "floracci",
to the most refined imitations of antique collections
maybe even decorated in pure gold. Monogrammed dinner-services
can also be ordered or particular objects commissioned
and decorated to one's own personal taste, thus
making the most of the workmanship of the craftsman.
Among the road out of the town and down into the
valley one comes across the factories which produce
mainly for markets abroad.