Wine
TrailsMontecucco.
The Montecucco Wine Trail runs through a vast area
situated on the slopes of Mount Amiata, which has
its centre at Cinigiano, lying between the Maremma
region and Amiata. The seven Comuni which produce
the Montecucco DOC wine are all to be found in the
Province of Grosseto, in South Tuscany, and are, besides
Cinigiano: Civitella Paganico, Campagnatico, Castel
del Piano, Arcidosso, Seggiano and Roccalbegna.
This little-known area strikes the visitor as a kind
of enchanted garden, with endless discoveries to be
made - a different Tuscany, the real one, in which
tradition and innovation are combined. It is an unspoilt
landscape whose natural dignity and resources have
been respected, especially in more recent wine-growing.
Apart from Montecucco DOC and Maremma Toscana IGT
wines, the area also produces olive oil (IGP Toscano
- Seggiano is particularly worth a mention), chestnuts,
which are shortly to receive IGP recognition Mount
Amiata Chestnut), mushrooms, notably the ceps and
ovolo species, and excellent honey. The Trail is arranged
in one main itinerary and five mini-itineraries which
wind through the most beautiful and interesting parts
of the area from the viticultural, historic, cultural
and environmental point of view. The following towns
are touched upon: Paganico, Sasso d'Ombrone, Poggi
del,Sasso, Montecucco, Cinigiano, Porrona, Montenero,
Montegiovi, Montelaterone, Castel del Piano and Seggiano.
Main Route: Paganico - Sasso d'Ombrone -
Poggi del Sasso - Montecucco - Cinigiano - Porrona
- Montenero - Montegiovi - Montelaterone - Castel
del Piano - Seggiano.
The itinerary passes through the most important Montecucco
DOC wine-growing zones. Setting off from Paganico,
a lively, modern town with an interesting four-gated
wall dating from the fourth century ???, we reach
the Monteverdi farm and then on to Sasso d'Ombrone,
with its imposing bridge and medieval gate. We then
climb up to Poggi del Sasso, a little rural town and
centre of Montecucco wine production. This area is
abundant in vineyards, cellars and wineries, but is
also noteworthy for the beautiful castles at Vicarello
and Colle Massari. A few kilometers from Poggi del
Sasso is the Montecucco Farm which has lent its name
to the eponymous DOC wine. This area, in front of
Mount Amiata, is the heart of wine-growing activities.
Numerous holiday farmhouses, traditional trattorie,
and extensive wildlife make this area very rewarding
from the hunting and culinary point of view. Nearby
is the Porrona Castle, a stunning village whose image
has been borrowed to promote DOC Montecucco wine.
Montenero is the other DOC Montecucco "capital",and
it houses the Museum of Wine and Vine. There are many
cellars where wine, oil and other local products may
be savoured.
During the summer in a park in Montenero an open-air
wine bar is set up for the tasting of Montecucco wine.
Also here one may visit the seventeenth century well
and the town wall gate. Leaving Monyenero and proceeding
towards Mount Amiata we arrive in the Montegiovi area
- a veritable museum of viticulture, with its little
groves of mixed olives and patches of vines. In fact
a real vine museum is planned for the conservation
of germoplasm and particularly autochthonous species
of grapevine. Also to be admired is the centre of
Montegiovi, where on the last Sunday of September
a country fair, devoted to Bruschetta, is held. Montelaterone
is the last village before Castel del Piano - the
incredibly well-preserved centre is worth a visit.
Then Castel del Piano itself: it is one of the most
important towns of Mount Amiata, and the visitor should
seek out Palazzo Nericci, which is soon to be a museum
dedicated to peasant culture, the Castiglionese Gate,
Corso Nasini, the Monaci, Cantucci, Bruni, Alluigi
and Cerboni Palaces, the Teatrino and the Loggia della
Mercanzia. The trail finishes up in Seggiano, or rather
a little further on - another area given over to vine
and olive-growing. Here the Logge del Mercato and
the historically important centre, with its cellars
carved out of rocks, are worth seeing, as are the
charming Potentino Castle and Daniel Spoerri's unusual
"Garden of Art". One should also visit the
Olivastra Seggianese olive-pressing works where the
only single-variety Tuscan oil, denominated "Seggiano",
is produced from the locally cultivated Amiata olive.
The annual Oil Festival is held on the first Sunday
of December.
Mini-itinerary: Monte Antico - Casenovole
- Casal di Pari - Bagno di Petriolo
This trail is particularly rich in history, as the
Castles of Monte Antico and Casenovole testify. We
wind along a route not far from the River Ombrone,
in an area once famous for wine-growing and which
is today regaining it old splendor and vocation. The
little towns of Pari and Casal di Pari, veritable
rural gems, are a must, as is the charming spa of
Petriolo, set in the Nature Reserve of Basso Merse.
There are also numerous farm guesthouses and traditional
restaurants, making this place rather special.
Mini-itinerary: Paganico - Civitella Marittima
After Paganico, famous for its Frog(-eating) Festival
on the first Sunday of every September, we reach Civitella
Marittima, a friendly, hospitable town that acts as
centre for this trail, adjacent as it is to the DOC
Monteregio di Massa Marittima wine-growing zone. The
stupendous Ardengesca Abbey, an ancient monastic complex
situated on the so-called "Salt Road", begs
to be seen.
Mini-itinerary: Campagnatico - Cinigiano
Campagnatico is the starting point for this trail
- this important Maremma town was even mentioned by
Dante. The Civic Theatre, the Aldobrandesca Rock and
the Pretorio Palace should all be seen. Views of olive
groves and vineyards are splendid along this route,
against the delightful backdrop of the Maremma plain.
The unusual Palio dei Ciuchi (donkey race) is held
every September.
This delightful trail is centred on Castiglioncello
Baldini, which is dominated by a splendid castle -
the castle's cellars, currently undergoing restoration,
are worth a visit. The trail touches on the Poggio
all'Olmo and Monte Labbro Nature Reserves. Then we
reach the town of Stribugliano, which is part of the
Comune of Arcidosso, and which gives the impression
of a huge terrace with its breathtaking view. Cana,
a village of Etruscan origin in the Comune of Roccalbegna
is a DOC Montecucco zone. On the third Sunday of every
October is held a festival dedicated to the Chestnut.
The seventeenth century Medici Cistern should be seen.
This route through the Cinigiano area follows the
old mountain road linking the plain with Mount Amiata,
and thus linking corn with chestnuts. However, also
the grape is ubiquitous here. Sasso d'Ombrone, originally
Sasso di Maremma, is a little village on the River
Ombrone, in which an unusual festival is held on the
third Sunday of every September - the Festival of
the Eel ! Ponticello Amiata is a well-preserved, historically
interesting town with a delightful ethnographic "house-museum".
Here the chestnut is king, and a festival is held
in its honour onthe second sunday of every October.