Wine
TrailsEtruscan Coast.
Unspoilt beaches and green pine groves, seaside holidays
and golden tans, long walks and disco nights: the
Etruscan Coast offers all this and much more.
Great wines are also produced here, to the extent
of attracting writers of specialist magazines and
connoisseurs throughout the world. A few miles from
Bolgheri is a place called La California - maybe it
was fate that led to this area being christened the
"California" of Italy, or indeed, sometimes,
the Italian "Bordeaux". All this was due
to the efforts the two Della Gherardesca sisters (one
may recall Count Ugolino in Dante's Divine Comedy),
one of whom married an Incisa della Rocchetta, the
other an Antinori. Mario Incisa "invented"
"Sassicaia", considered by one authoritative
magazine to be "the most famous Italian wine
in the world", while the Antinori family contributed
their experience as one of the most prestigious wine-growers
in the world. Lodovico Antinori created one of the
most fascinating cellars in the world, and for his
"Ornellaia" received an award for the best
Italian Cabernet from the magazine Decanter in 1995.
Piero Antinori transformed the production of rosé,
very fashionable in the seventies, into the magnificent
"Guado di Tasso", which immediately found
a place among the top wines of the country. But the
process did not stop with Sassicaia, Ornellaia and
Guado di Tasso. There was a flowering of young and
enthusiastic producers, who soon joined the highest
echelons in enology with well-deserved fame, not just
in the neighbourhood of Bolgheri, but also with DOC
wines from adjacent Montescudaio, Val di Cornia and
Elba.
Thus arose the Etruscan Coast Wine Trail with its
great wines, keen young producers plus, above all,
a landscape situated in a strip which runs parallel
to the sea. It contains all that a visitor might wish
for - medieval towns in which life is led at a more
human pace, hills covered with dense woods where it
is not unusual to encounter wild boars, roe deer and
fallow deer, views that blur the green of the vegetation
with the intense blue of the sky, friendly and welcoming
locals, and natural tasty food that makes one long
to taste the wines which are the fruit of this land.
The Trail will provide you with a sublime itinerary
that embraces culture, environment and, of course,
fine wines and cuisine. From the three northernmost
Comuni, Montescudaio, Guardistallo and Casale, in
the ancient fief of the Della Gherardesca family,
we can reach, possibly with appropriate detours, Montecatini
Val di Cecina in which the mining of copper traditionally
took place.
Most of the wineries are to be found in the outskirts
of the villages, around Castellina Marittima and Montecatini.
Between Casale and Bolgheri, we cross Bibbona, which
boasts a nature reserve (La Macchia della Magona,
1,635 hectares), full of little paths through the
woods, which can be followed on foot, by bicycle or
horse. In the central part of the area, the Trail
takes us to Bolgheri with its noble castle and memories
of the writer Carducci (Grandmother Lucia's little
cemetery and the cypress-lined avenue are a must!).
The road from here to Castagneto is one of the prettiest
tree-lined roads in the region - along the road we
find the Sassicaia vineyards and the Ornellaia and
Le Macchiole production plants. Lessons in the "cold"
working of extravirgin olive oil may be enjoyed in
the olive-pressing works not far from the road. Castagneto
Carducci, a farming town of medieval origin, sits
astride a landscape that is rich in olive groves,
vineyards, woods and thickets and which stretches
to the azure blue of the Tyrrhenian Sea.
From here the trail winds into a wooded area, through
the natural charms of Sassetta and on to Suvereto,
the centre of DOC "Val di Cornia" wine.
Apart from the evident attractions of the ancient
medieval towns of Suvereto and Campiglia, the visitor
will find fascinating the Parks of Montioni, Monte
Calvi and Lagoni Rossi as well as the Campiglia Archeological/Mineralogical
Park with its San Silvestro Rock and remains of Etruscan
mines and foundries. The "enotourist" will
find his heart's content in this beehive of activity
where young wineries are trying to imitate the great
wines of Bolgheri, excellent Cabernets and Merlots,
as well as lesser wines which are more traditional,
but processed in the way that today's market dictates.
Piombino, famous for its steelworks, is the gate to
the island of Elba, which was defined by Pliny as
"Insula vini ferax", that is, the island
abounding in wine. The sea, the climate and natural
attractions have superseded agriculture in importance,
yet importance is beginning to be given to wine again,
and visitors will enjoy themselves going in search
of a rare bottle of the real Aleatico wine, with its
intense scent of fruit preserves and oriental spices.